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I have been working on my battery for a while now and have finally come to a final form. In its most basic essence it is any nobel metal battery which I have talked at length about before but the cathode is under oxidizing conditions and the anode under reductive conditions. A basic form could be oxygen or air moving through the cathode side and just acid or base in the anode side. A porus "salt bridge like" divider between anode side and cathode side can help segregate oxidative from reductive conditions but is not required. Hydrogen peroxide or another oxidizer could also be used instead of the oxygen or air. Even more preferably a mixture of oxygen and nitrous oxide could be used as the oxidizer on the cathode side. Nitrous is a strong oxidizer but requires activation to work, oxygen or some other oxidizer can help activate it. Even more preferably would be to use ozone gas as the oxidizer however it is energy intensive to produce and difficult to store. On the anode side a simple hydro-halogen acid like hydrochloric, hydrobromic, hydrofluoric, etc can be used. Most preferable would likely be hydrofluoric but it is very dangerous and difficult to contain since it dissolves glass. High concentration hydrochloric acid does very well especially 37%+. Other reducing agents could be used instead of or in addition to acid on the anode side. Even photosensitive dyes can be used which would be a solar cell by converting light into electrons which reduce the anode. Hydrogen gas or other fuels could be used, chemical or biochemical antioxidants, etc.
I have been working on my battery for a while now and have finally come to a final form. In its most basic essence it is any nobel metal battery which I have talked at length about before but the cathode is under oxidizing conditions and the anode under reductive conditions. A basic form could be oxygen or air moving through the cathode side and just acid or base in the anode side. A porus "salt bridge like" divider between anode side and cathode side can help segregate oxidative from reductive conditions but is not required. Hydrogen peroxide or another oxidizer could also be used instead of the oxygen or air. Even more preferably a mixture of oxygen and nitrous oxide could be used as the oxidizer on the cathode side. Nitrous is a strong oxidizer but requires activation to work, oxygen or some other oxidizer can help activate it. Even more preferably would be to use ozone gas as the oxidizer however it is energy intensive to produce and difficult to store. On the anode side a simple hydro-halogen acid like hydrochloric, hydrobromic, hydrofluoric, etc can be used. Most preferable would likely be hydrofluoric but it is very dangerous and difficult to contain since it dissolves glass. High concentration hydrochloric acid does very well especially 37%+. Other reducing agents could be used instead of or in addition to acid on the anode side. Even photosensitive dyes can be used which would be a solar cell by converting light into electrons which reduce the anode. Hydrogen gas or other fuels could be used, chemical or biochemical antioxidants, etc.
The most preferable embodiment in my opinion which uses off the shelf and open source hardware components would be as follows:
Take a wide mouth mason jar. Create a sintered fritted glass porus divider that divides the jar in half. In one side (cathode) put a iridium plated electrode. In the other side (anode) place a copper electrode. Next fill the jar with 37%+ HCL. Place one gas dispersion tube in each side. In the cathode side bubble in a mixture of oxygen and nitrous oxide gas. In the anode side bubble in hydrogen gas. Place a round cut piece of HDPE on the jar to cover (making holes for dispersion tubes and wires to go through). Screw the jar lid on securing the HDPE cover. Hot glue around the holes in the HDPE creating an air tight seal. Allow a small hole for gas to escape. When there is no gas pumping through the solution the battery will store indefinitely because no potential difference is created. Once the 3 gasses are on a voltage will grow and best case scenario would approach 2 volts. Amperage depends on the surface area of the cathode and a lesser effect from anode surface area. Also a large effect is by how restrictive the porus barrier between anode and cathode is. An average build should easily give 10 amps and 2 volts (20 Watts) per jar battery.
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